Four Thousands Islands - marvelous sun set and touristic bubble.

CSC_8352
Marvelous sun set over Mekong.

Finally I managed to cross the border to Laos. On the boarder I received visa on arrival, but unfortunately I was forced to pay additional two dollar “stamp fee”. Two stamps in the passport - two dollars. This was my first bribe during this travel.

I was a bit tired of my Cambodian off the beaten tracks and I was happy to get to the Don Det, the most touristic island in Four Thousands Islands (Si Phan Don). Next day I bicycled around the Don Det and Don Khon and I went on the boat to see the Sweet Water dolphins – they are very rare, and indeed very sweet animals. In the evening I have seen one of the most marvelous sun sets in my life. Additionally to the great sun set.... there was a rainbow on the other side!!! Amazing. I am not carrying with me the polarization filter, so you have to believe me that the rainbow was bright and spectacular.

DSC_8343
Rainbow on one side, sun set on the other.

After one day I was already overwhelmed with all the touristic infrastructure, so next morning I wanted to see a real Laos. In order to hit the road, I went to catch a ferry. All the tourists that are getting to and from the islands are buying the bus tickets at one of the tourist agency together with the ferry ticket, but I planned to bicycle and I did not want to go by any bus.

The time that I reached the ferry boat pier, there were no other tourists. There was a small ferry standing aside but there was no boatmen. I was not in hurry, so I waited. There was a possibility for me to rent the whole boat only for me, but it was overpriced and I preferred to jump on the local ferry. Initially I wanted to go to the land and then bicycle north and get to the Don Khong but I noticed that there was a local ferry going to the neighboring island, Don Som every 10-15 minutes. I decided to go to this island. But apparently the boatmen did not agree that I get on the ferry explaining in the local language that I had to wait for the other ferry. From what I understood this was the ferry only for local people.... and the other ferry was for tourists. No problem I could wait a bit longer. But the other boatmen never showed up. After half an hour of waiting, when the local ferry again arrived, I just jump on it with Lisu. Initially the boatmen protested a bit, but I was already on a boat and I did not plan to leave it. After few minutes, he got me to the other Island. On the other side he shook my hand and smiled – kind of congratulating me to get out of the touristic bubble...

I think that this was kind of ferry mafia arrangement. One ferry for the local people, the other ferry only linked with the bus ticket for tourists. The boatman had to play this game on touristic Don Det, but when we reached non-touristic Don Son he did not have to. In some places one can come across some mafia like arrangements especially among tuk-tuk drivers. And if possible, I try not to agree with the mafia arrangement.

CSC_8447
Incredible Laos children.

I reached Don Son, 14km long island, without any touristic infrastructure, without any cars, with only few small paths for bicycles and motorbikes. I made a long stop at one of the Wat (temples) where the local people seemed to have small celebration. I got my first Lao style noddle soup and played with great Laos children and a short game of petanque (this game is very popular here). Afterward I bicycle slowly north and on the way it seems that I am a huge attraction for the locals, tourists are naver coming to this island. At one of the spots I was offered freshly made rice bread to taste. On the other end of the Don Som Island I found a ferry that got me to Don Khong.

Guys, if you ever come to exotic, foreign country and you really want to interact with local people, try to leave the touristic bubbles at least for some time. I guess this is especially important for a very poor countries, since than the money that one is spending directly are going to local people. Many businesses in touristic bubbles are owned by foreigners and most of the money that one spends goes unfortunately to their pockets.